HVL Purchase Question

[Paolo_MD]

A thought / question related to running two tools at once: Are the additional motors additive to the overall capacity, or subtractive, or neither?

IOW, I seem to recall reading that if you had a 5 hp converter and used it to start a 3 hp motor, and let them both just idle, I *think* that you would have roughly the equivalent of an 8 hp converter. But what if the second motor is under load ... would you still have 8 hp of capacity to start, say, a 6 hp motor, or would you be "using up" 3 of the 5 hp, leaving only 2 hp of capacity to start another motor? (I realize the math is surely not nearly that simple, what with losses, but let's keep it simple for my poor brain ...)

In very rough terms, you can vision each running motor as the equivalent of a flywheel in terms of keeping the three phases at the proper angle between them and as for balancing the manufactured leg. Therefore, the more motors you have running, the better and the easier to start a larger motor.
In terms of total load permissible, it depends on the wiring and the components making up the RPC. But, in general, it's ~3-4x the rated power of the idler.

Paolo

 

[majohnson]

I just hoping to get one up and running. There are a few of the fuses that have higher resistance then they should, so I plan on changing out all of the fuses. The main fuse is 15 amp, it seem high, I need to do some math and see what all the consumers add up to.

I received an email that American will be shipping my converter today, if I am lucky all the parts will be here by Friday.

 

[awake]

OK. You got it in one.

Ummm ... what did I get??

 

[majohnson]

After some greif of trying to find someone to run 220, I went ahead and ran it myself. Then installing the RPC, I followed the instructions that American Rotary includes with their kits. Their instruction manuel is well written, and also includes a list of problems. One of their issues listed was installers using incorrect wire size to the control panel. It was also part of the issue I was having with trying to hire someone, they all wanted to use number 10 from the panel to the RPF control panel. American recommends number 8 gauge to their panel. Using Liquidtight flexible since I only had a short run made the install easy.

After getting all the wiring hook up following American instructions the RPC motor started the very first attempt. It only took mill seconds for the light on the panel to indicate 3 phase power. Since I had damaged the #1 motor forward relay. I was able to just replace the 120 volt relay motor coil, I was a little nervous about turning on the lathe. Checking the voltages to the master switch all show good. The lathe powered up without an issue, I still need to test some function. But the problem I have is all screen printing on the panels has become unreadable.

Thanks for all the input everyone, your input help me get things working again. Once I figure out the controls I can make some chips.

 

[Stradbash]

Congratulations on getting the RPC installed and things running!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JRIowa]

I want to get all new felt and remove all the old fluids. I dump some #4 Way oil and things didn’t want to move very easily.

I wouldn't move easily either if you cover me with #4 way oil. You'd better check the requirements first.
JR

 

[majohnson]

I have #2 Vactra coming in next week. Has anyone had oil filling the screw holes that hold on the end plates on the carriage. I have been getting dark oil coming out on top of the carriage ends, and the stuff smells bad.

 

[Monarchist]

I have #2 Vactra coming in next week. Has any had oil filling the screw holes that hold on the end plates on the carriage. I have been getting dark oil coming out on top of the carriage ends, and the stuff smells bad.

Your "plan" is to not let it get so f****d-up, ever again, going forward, right?

Take the time to flush everything you don't take apart, then keep it clean. ATF is more lubricious than the usual recommendation - white kerosene - for stuff you are going to have to slide or rotate as part of the cleanout.

Do your LAST flush with the clean way oil or lube oil that any given part of the machine runs "permanent like" and you'll be more certain there is no residue of some other fluid left to dilute it. ATF's colourant dye should become "all gone, now" for example.

Not hard. Not expensive, the one time a pint or three of good fluids are "wasted". Their sacrifice improves chances all your other work will endure longer.

2 pints worth...

 

[rons]

I want to get all new felt and remove all the old fluids. I dump some #4 Way oil and things didn’t want to move very easily. I read somewhere about a way oil pump upgrade any ideas on what models that might apply to.

Apron and clutch: Mobil 200 or ATF type A.
Carriage: Mobil #2.

I only use #4 on the bed when sliding the tailstock back and forth. Over the years you will become much stronger with your right arm sliding that sucker back and forth.

 

[Monarchist]

Apron and clutch: Mobil 200 or ATF type A.
Carriage: Mobil #2.

I only use #4 on the bed when sliding the tailstock back and forth. Over the years you will become much stronger with your right arm sliding that sucker back and forth.

I'd think #4 Vactra would make your right arm stronger from holding the Mike Foxtrot in place, manually, given how difficult it could make slip-free clamping on the first go.

 

[rons]

I'd think #4 Vactra would make your right arm stronger from holding the Mike Foxtrot in place, manually, given how difficult it could make slip-free clamping on the first go.

Those that do not move Hardinge tailstocks back and forth on a daily basis have to settle for arm strength training with Miss Rosey Palm.

 

[jim rozen]

Apron and clutch: Mobil 200 or ATF type A.
Carriage: Mobil #2.

I only use #4 on the bed when sliding the tailstock back and forth. Over the years you will become much stronger with your right arm sliding that sucker back and forth.

Originally both the carriage and way pump oiler were spec'd for ATF. Works fine.

My plan right now is to put air on the tailstock for our HLVH at work. Makes it easy to move...

 

[Monarchist]

Those that do not move Hardinge tailstocks back and forth on a daily basis have to settle for arm strength training with Miss Rosey Palm.

California priorities, one supposes. And here I thought you owned a Hardinge?



And if Jim is looking to put "air" on a modest Hardinge TS?

Mayhap I should look to re-purpose the pump and tank left-over from when my lathe still had a hydraulic tracer. Should be a way to move its TS with juice.

The 5MT, through-bored ram, HBX-360-BC capstan plus-plus TS just might be heavier than some small lathes, entire!

At least it doesn't favour the right arm. Legs back, and BOTH arms, rather!

 

[jim rozen]

Apparently a tiny air line (1/8 or so) ported to the underside of an hlvh tailstock removes the need for the armstrong method.

 

[Monarchist]

Apparently a tiny air line (1/8 or so) ported to the underside of an hlvh tailstock removes the need for the armstrong method.

The physics make sense, yes.

But "cross fertilization" as PM can do - you actually triggered thoughts about using the already-there hydraulics to operate the TS ram rather than their old job of manipulating at the carriage and cross.

That Cazeneuve's TS ram is generously through bored and open at the rear is part of what could make that easier than it sounds.

 

[JRIowa]

You should clarify, it's Vactra #2 or medium way oil.
I've been doing the a long, long time and I've never seen anybody use Vactra #4 on a Hardinge. In fact, the only time that I ever saw #4 used was on the ram of a 300" VTL.
JR

 

[majohnson]

With no prior experience on a HLV-H it been a steep learning curve. All the screen printing on the controls has worn off. I have label most of it with a sharpie. The good part is everything works. Anyone know of a good source for control plates that are readable.

What is white kerosene? I have cleaned off so much build up of old oil, chips. My Mobil #2 is here Monday. MSC had my order ship fast, I placed the order Friday, and it here Monday. My task on Monday is get the balance of the old way oil flush out. Is there another way to flush the old oil out besides the pull knob on the carrier. I want to spend more time learning on the lathe before I disassemble are refinish things. I figure waiting until summer to the refinish, that way it warmer for the finish to flash off.

I didn’t put #4 in the system, I just covered the bed with it using my hands to make sure I didn’t come out the next day to a pile of rust.

Thanks everyone,

 

[Monarchist]

Anyone know of a good source for control plates that are readable.

The Pee Cee right in front of you for layout and font selection, printouts on clear stock to test that you have it right, then off to a process called "Metalphoto" that ends with a tough, clear layer of Aluminium Oxide atop for the final ones.

Examples are all around us. My first exposure to it, the lunar landing commemorative plaque. Still as-new "after all these years", too.

Takes long years to wear those ugly, even in a shop. And you can do-up spares cheaply enough at the outset. Or later.

You can send-out your artwork, most "trophy" shops can do it, or for not a huge hassle, buy kits to DIY in-house.

 

[rons]

With no prior experience on a HLV-H it been a steep learning curve. All the screen printing on the controls has worn off. I have label most of it with a sharpie. The good part is everything works. Anyone know of a good source for control plates that are readable.

I called Hardinge parts 1-800 number and purchased replacement plates, which still apply to the older HLV models. They are not too expensive.

I think you are doing the right thing, get the lathe running first a bit at a time. Instead of taking it all apart and starting from the ground up. As long as you clean the surfaces that slide against each other, have a decent set of drive belts, and get the electrics working, you have a starting point.

 

[Jim S.]

My plan right now is to put air on the tailstock for our HLVH at work. Makes it easy to move...

I think Jim's idea is great. Not only will the ts be easier to slide but the air should keep some of the chips out from under the ts. Should be easy to rig an air valve into the ts locking lever so it actuates the air in conjunction with the lever.