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Who likes W-D 40 ????

the reason why the stuff kills bugs and not us, is because of their relatively small mass compared to us. LD 50 (leathal dose 50% death rate) is rated usually in mg/kg of body weight, or for even more leathal stuff, mcg/kg of body weight.

do the math on that given the amount of WD-40 and the body weight of a wasp, and it will all make sense.
 
mudflap,

they will give more with the restrictor out IIRC, but they also don't necessarily perform any better with a higher flow rate. Removing the flow restrictor might even degrade the quality of your showering experience if it reduces the velocity of the water spray at all. A well designed water saving shower head, contrary to popular opinion often works better than the old wasteful ones. unless you are trying to use it to fill up a 5 gallon bucket of course. and that's why god invented the garden hose.
 
I used to use WD-40 on the electrical connectors and fuse blocks on my motorcycle until the day I turned the key to start the bike and nothing came on,no fuel pump buzz, no lights.

I was fortunate to have some fine grit wet/dry paper in the tool kit and by abrading slightly the fuse clips and fuses was able to get the bike home where I got a set of welders nozzle cleaning files and was able to remove the WD-40 from the pins and sockets of the connectors.

The WD-40 became non-conductive and was more an insulator. I would not advise using it on electrical connectors and switches. I have found and am using a product called Deoxit D5 from a company in San Diego Ca (www.caig.com)
that has not given me any trouble on the bike's connectors and switches.

Wd-40 may have it's uses but not for me in electrical connectors and switches.
 
the aerosol version used to be great propellant for the potato cannon ... guess it was the propane.
still use it to maintain all the bare metal surfaces in the metal shop.
 
still use it to maintain all the bare metal surfaces in the metal shop.
Seeing as it doesn't work very well for that purpose...why ? I suspect if it "works" it's because your surfaces didn't need "maintaining" in the first place !
 
Way back when I was a pistol smith I LOVED WD40. Spray it throughly all over a nickel-plated pistol, wrap in a cloth and put it up in the attic for a few years and it does a terrific job of peeling the plating right off the firearm... more paying work for me!

PS - Do NOT try to use WD-40 as a long-term protectant for plated firearms... unless you plan on a costly replating job anyway.

Stan Db
 
From all I've read from various factons, machinist, woodworking (machinery) and marine related, plus my own experiences...it seems WD40 is a solvent, but apparently has some protecterant in there as well. If a light coat of WD is sprayed on a metal surface that previously had an oil film on it, it can actually make it more prone to rust than it would if left alone, as the solvent disolved the oil film. But if slathered on in vast qualtities, WD will apparently provide some rust protection. But a light coat of LPS3 will still work way better than a thick coat of WD40 for that purpose.

Now I can't wait until spring so I can find out if LPS3 will kill hornets, as they would thrill many of you to find out it does ! "oooh, oooh...it does other wierd stuff..yipee !" :rolleyes:
 
Now I can't wait until spring so I can find out if LPS3 will kill hornets, as they would thrill many of you to find out it does ! "oooh, oooh...it does other wierd stuff..yipee !"
It will but isn't affordable..... WD is cheap, has SOME other uses, and may actually be at hand when the hornets come around as you work on the tractor, etc..... and it smells better than insecticide. Plus, as bad as it probably is, it isn't quite the quick nerve poison that most insecticides are if you are going to stay around where you sprayed it.

That said, there are much better products, obviously.

But if I have to spray some wasps that have set up home under the hood, and I need to work in there afterwards, I'd rather spray WD etc than "Black Flag" or the like..... and I'd have to take a walk to get the "Black Flag", I might have the WD etc at hand.
 
I just found a new use for the stuff the other day.

I have a compressor hooked up to run as a vacuum pump. we need it to take air out of the clay in a pugmill (clay mixing machine). also sucks some water out of the clay. every so often the oil in the sump turns to goo, as it emulsifies with the water from the clay. gets hard to remove. I used a bit of wd-40 in the sump to get the water to come out with the last oil change. worked like a champ. Added a bit of oil, drain again, then filled to spec.

before using the wd-40 to thin the goo and remove the water, it would take a LOOOOONG time to get that goo out of the bottom of the sump. now it is a quick and easy job.

I like wd-40 for the fact that it does perform adequately in certain jobs (like getting rid of water). Like Jim Rozen said, it's a pretty decent swiss army knife type tool. not always the best tool for the job. nice to have around when you need it.
 
Well I hesitate to mention this, as we might loose some of you PM members once you become fully immersed in this site. ( J...in case I never hear from you again, you were quite an asset here) ...but here ya go..

http://fanclub.wd40.com

:cool:
 
When I worked in broadcasting a certain manufacturers aerial switch was burning up, so I went to the manufacturers and complained, After they had done a investigation, they reccomended, Yup! your right! the WD 40 stuff. They claimed it actually turned into a conductor under high pressure loading. Did it work, it reduced the failure rate by 10X over chemically clean contacts but the real problem was that the transmitters were still transmitting as the switch contact moved, This we cured. (and the switch failures).
Regards Frank
 
D.Thomas - let me know what you mean.
for me it seems to work pretty nice to clean and get rid of any rust spots on my welding table, also I notice projects are less likely to pick up scratches with a light coat on the table surface. my cold saw gets gunked up with dried coolant and wd-40 cleans it and seems to prevent rust. ditto on my Bridgeport bed. also stops flash rusting for the patina and black oxide operations I do here. is there one product you reccomend for all these uses? is it available non aerosol in gallons?
pm
 
pm, Boeshield or Starrett M1 (cheaper than Boeshield at about 5 bucks a can) would work better at the uses you describe, with possible exception of cleaning the dryed coolant on your cold saw. Sometimes wet coolant works best to clean dryed coolant, but otherwise depends on the coolant...Greased lighting on some, but common paint thinner might do on other types...followed by Starrett M1 to prevent rust of course.
 








 
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