Grinding wheel adapter for cut-off wheels

skipd1 · Aug 4, 2013

I added some abrasive cut-off wheels to my order of Norton wheels. I have a .062 A60 and .062 A46 PBC cut-off wheels. I noticed none of my adapters tighten down enough to hold these wheels. What kind of wheel adapter do I need to mount these cut-off wheels on my Harig 612 grinder?
Thanks

Skipd1

Mark Rand · Aug 4, 2013

On my Jones&Shipman 1400 8x24" grinder, none of the arbours would tighten down far enough for a 1/16" disk. So I turned up a spacer out of some 4" dia steel stock I had to hand. That adaptation has worked perfectly for a number of years. The biggest danger is forgetting how bloody fragile the wheels are when they're sat on the bench :confused:

. probably any material from steel, brass, Delrin/acetal etc. will do the job.

TDegenhart · Aug 4, 2013

I've made adapters for the thin wheels, but the biggest problem is that the wheels I have do not have a reinforced center hole. I have made a rubber washer to try to prevent the wheel from slipping radially, but to no avail. The wheel slips, crushes against the arbor is now very much off center. Anyone with a good idea?

Tom

BuffDan · Aug 4, 2013

The Sopko flanged hubs have flanges with recesses machined in, so they grip the wheel farther away from the center.. Maybe your adapters aren't gripping properly? The Sopko flanges I have don't allow the wheels to slip... As least not yet for me....William Sopko & Sons Co., Inc - Standard Taper Flanged Wheel Adapters

Modelman · Aug 5, 2013

Cut-off wheel flanges:

Wheel Adapter Parts.

Dennis

Kevco · Aug 6, 2013

TDegenhart said:
I've made adapters for the thin wheels, but the biggest problem is that the wheels I have do not have a reinforced center hole. I have made a rubber washer to try to prevent the wheel from slipping radially, but to no avail. The wheel slips, crushes against the arbor is now very much off center. Anyone with a good idea?

Tom

As modelman said, the flange adapters of that style is what we used. We make our own but they look just like that. If your cutting thing material the larger flanges will make your wheel last longer due to the support. A lot of times you just can't use them on deep cuts and just use the small ones.

Tom,
Are you using paper blotters on both sides of the wheel? Norton should have included them with the cut off wheels. If not, call them up and tell them you need some. As far as the out of round, as soon as you cut a little bit they "self round" them selves. I normally go a little slow at first till it gets there. If your starting out on an expensive piece you can also just cut a scrap piece of something to get it right.

michiganbuck · Aug 6, 2013

Go with recommendations to make a flat sides (doughnut) spacer the same diameter as your wheel adapter hub.

I have seen people dress an old ½ inch wide wheel OD down to make a hub spacer. I don't recomend , but it works.

Use a paper gaskets taken off an old wheel if the cut-off does not have two. Cut off wheels must have a gasket on both sides or they will be quick to break. Be sure the adapter nut goes to tighten with rotation, if not then you have the wrong adapter for that end of spindle.

Cut-offs are very tough to the OD but not to the side, they do not bend well, some not at all.

Come into cut-off work with light feed to touch and mark spot then pull through. To cut at angle ride the work with light touch until a start mark is in the part.

Keep them in the box and if you can hang up the box so it can not fall. Give yourself lots of room when mounting so you do not accidently bend it.

Buck

skipd1 · Aug 6, 2013

Thanks Everyone, as usual lots of great info for the newbie to this subject!!
Thanks again.

Regards
Skipd1

Kevco · Aug 6, 2013

skipd1 said:
Thanks Everyone, as usual lots of great info for the newbie to this subject!!
Thanks again.

Regards
Skipd1

A couple more things if you are new to using them.

Use a wheel guard and wear full eye protection. When they go they explode and send pieces everywhere. If you're making deep cuts you better have a coolant spray on the piece as the heat will expand the metal on sides and bind the wheel. That is when it'll send wheel shards everywhere.

I started using these wheels instead of the Nortons:

They last at least 3 times longer and sometimes a lot more. I did one job that required deep cuts. I was getting 3 pieces till it was too close to the hub (Norton}. Put on ONE of these and did the remaining 40 pieces with a single wheel. Same machine, same parts, same operator so it sold me on them.

michiganbuck · Aug 6, 2013

Skipd,

When using a cut-off on a surface or T/C grinder it is best to have table locked or work at or just past center so the cutting does not try to climb grind to abruptly suck work up travel or take out slack in head or table and perhaps break wheel.

They are really tough and strong when used correctly.

Work should be well secured so it does not try to change angle when being cut.

Post some photos.

Buck

michiganbuck · Aug 6, 2013

Skipd,

Notice in moldeman (dennis’s ) post that the wheel flanges have an undercut that matches the same as in the wheel mount hub face.

That is the right and best way to make or have the flange or spacer face to apply pressure to the same area as the wheel mount or hub face, and of course be flat and parallel.

Buck

TDegenhart · Aug 6, 2013

Excellent information all! Thanks

Tom

Davis In SC · Aug 6, 2013

I like the plastic flanges, black nylon, glass filled, I think. I have two sets, the first from National Tool (Mold Bases), going on 30 years old, still like new, and I use cut-off wheels a lot.. I think my other set came from Travers.. They are inexpensive, and the "dish" in them really grabs the wheel..

michiganbuck · Aug 6, 2013

Simple stuff:

Reason for gasket:

Grinding wheels and cut off wheels can not be exactly flat because they are a composition of abrasive particles (stones and rocks).

Pressure to some higher rocks or points can inflict more pressure to one or another and so cause stress or fracture to the wheel. The gasket made of paper, rubber, plastic or the like allows the holding pressure to be applied evenly to the entire side of the wheel.

Buck

tdmidget · Aug 6, 2013

Kevco said:
A couple more things if you are new to using them.

Use a wheel guard and wear full eye protection. When they go they explode and send pieces everywhere. If you're making deep cuts you better have a coolant spray on the piece as the heat will expand the metal on sides and bind the wheel. That is when it'll send wheel shards everywhere.

I started using these wheels instead of the Nortons:

They last at least 3 times longer and sometimes a lot more. I did one job that required deep cuts. I was getting 3 pieces till it was too close to the hub (Norton}. Put on ONE of these and did the remaining 40 pieces with a single wheel. Same machine, same parts, same operator so it sold me on them.

That's a new one. No blotters and the speed rating is m/min instead of rpm. Did it come with blotters?

Kevco · Aug 6, 2013

tdmidget said:
That's a new one. No blotters and the speed rating is m/min instead of rpm. Did it come with blotters?

Are you saying the ones you get are attached/glued on? In all my years of grinding I've never seen that. The Nortons are the same way, just thrown in the box.

Modelman · Aug 6, 2013

Davis In SC said:
I like the plastic flanges, black nylon, glass filled, I think. I have two sets, the first from National Tool (Mold Bases), going on 30 years old, still like new, and I use cut-off wheels a lot.. I think my other set came from Travers.. They are inexpensive, and the "dish" in them really grabs the wheel..

Actually, while I posted the link to the Sopko flanges, that's because it was the first one I found. Mine are plastic, also... might have come from MSC, and being softer than steel, seem to work well w/o blotters.

One thing, whether the flanges are the same diameter as the wheel adapter or not, you want to use a pair, so the relief is exactly the same and presses exactly opposite on the wheel. Two of these flanges and a cut-off wheel is about the same thickness as a 1/2" wheel.

Dennis

skipd1 · Aug 7, 2013

Adapter for cut off wheels

Modelman said:
Actually, while I posted the link to the Sopko flanges, that's because it was the first one I found. Mine are plastic, also... might have come from MSC, and being softer than steel, seem to work well w/o blotters.

One thing, whether the flanges are the same diameter as the wheel adapter or not, you want to use a pair, so the relief is exactly the same and presses exactly opposite on the wheel. Two of these flanges and a cut-off wheel is about the same thickness as a 1/2" wheel.

Dennis

I know I can make these spacers, but I still would like to locate the plastic spacers brought up in this thread! I haven't been able to find any sources. Does anyone have a way to acquire some?

Modelman · Aug 7, 2013

Go to MSCdirect.com and search for MSC Part #: 05940911. These look like what I have, but mine were purchased years ago; not sure what the quality of the current production is.

Dennis

skipd1 · Aug 8, 2013

Wheel adapter for cut off wheels

Modelman said:
Go to MSCdirect.com and search for MSC Part #: 05940911. These look like what I have, but mine were purchased years ago; not sure what the quality of the current production is.

Dennis

Thanks, All of you were a great help and I certainly appreciate it
Regards
Skipd1

Grinding wheel adapter for cut-off wheels

Cast Iron

Diamond

Diamond

Aluminum

Titanium

Cast Iron

Diamond

Cast Iron

Cast Iron

Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

Cast Iron

Titanium

Cast Iron

Titanium

Cast Iron

Similar threads