Old wagner induction motor.

[Bklamere]

I need some help. Someone took this motor apart and the wires are not marked much. I do know we're 123 are but i need to wire it for 3 phase 220v for a makerspace dual motoe air compressor. If anyone can direct me id be appreciative. I do know L1-L7 L2-L8 L3-L9 L4-L5-L6 per the plate which makes 4 wires but which ones are neutral & what ones are hot. Ill include a picture. If the cardboard thing inside is roght it says 123 on top so assumption is left to right top to bottom 123 456 789

 

[SAF]

There is no hot and neutral, it's a 3phase motor, needs 3 hots and a ground.
just like the tag shows on the low voltage connection.
Join 1 & 7 & Line1,
Join 2 & 8 & Line2,
Join 3 & 9 & Line3
Join 4 & 5 & 6
Connect Ground to the frame.
Interchange any two of the Lines to change rotation.
If all you have is hot and neutral, your SOL...

 

[Bklamere]

There is no hot and neutral, it's a 3phase motor, needs 3 hots and a ground.
just like the tag shows on the low voltage connection.
Join 1 & 7 & Line1,
Join 2 & 8 & Line2,
Join 3 & 9 & Line3
Join 4 & 5 & 6
Connect Ground to the frame.
Interchange any two of the Lines to change rotation.
If all you have is hot and neutral, your SOL...

Awesome! Just a quick follow-up. I'm hooking up to a plug so what would be the color arraignment?

 

[SAF]

I cant see what color your plug is, L1, L2,L3 + Ground

 

[rons]

I have the same motor. And I do see some wire labels. The wire with the red connector has a marker. That kind of wire is specific to motor builders
because the label marks repeat every few inches. So clean everything up look down the lengths of all wires.
I will look at my motor and see what there is to see.

My wires look better than yours. Then I tried to see how flexible one wire was expecting the insulation to crack. And it did.
It's a little job to replace the wires. I did it once before using Teflon wires.

 

[rons]

On the subject of insulation that is stiff as a board.

Yes the wiring will pass current and probably be no problem in the near term.
But say this motor/machine is sold at auction and it is given a few jolts by the fork lift or whatever.
Insulation cracks a little and maybe causes a smoke-out a few hundred hours later, Wonder how
many surprise barbecues happen like this blaming the short on the actual copper winding.
The real culprit is the lead-in wire and nobody even suspects that.

 

[JST]

Yep, if it doesn't move, it likely won't crack. But the lead wires get moved.

I've seen a few of those in old houses, too... The cloth covered rubber wire, and even old extension cords that have been in place for decades... some with "air insulation" where the actual plastic got hardened and cracked away long ago.

Scary to think that you actually slept in that house...... as I did in some of the cases.

You can track the old wires to their connection to the coils, and replace them. They are normally soldered, some might have compression sleeves as a connection..