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My coolant system with filter, aerator, and skimmer

DavidScott

Diamond
Joined
Jul 11, 2012
Location
Washington
This thread is in response to Dksoba's request for more information about my coolant system from one of my responses in another thread. I think it is worth creating it's own thread so here goes. I made up my own coolant system when I got my Kitamura about 4 years ago. I have a small shop and the coolant tank just didn't fit with that mill in my shop, plus it weighs 500 lbs and holds 80 gallons. The mill had been using straight oil so I would be tossing the first batch or two of coolant early as the oil was getting washed out, plus I am a small home based shop that spends up to 80% of my time working with stone so the machine would be sitting for weeks on end so I wanted a coolant system that used the minimum amount of coolant possible to make replacing it as easy as possible when needed.

The first photo shows the trough used to catch the coolant out of the machine and direct it into the first tank. Big plus over the stock tank is I can stand closer to the machine when changing parts. Nice because the table doesn't come overly close to the door on this mill.

Coolant-1.jpg


The second photo shows the first tank. It is epoxy coated plywood and was made for my stone coolant system years ago, just being repurposed. I did add a plastic cap through the bottom so the pump sits lower and will pump this tank dry. The chips are caught in a paint strainer to reduce the fines getting to the bag filter.


Coolant-2.jpg

This is the heart of it all. A 7" diameter x 20" long 5 micron bag filter, draining into a 10 gallon tub with a bubbler and skimmer. It all tucks under the mill nicely with the plywood back flush with the side of the enclosure. Bubbler and skimmer run 15 minutes every 6 hours. The skimmer separator tank needs to have two compartments to do a better job of separating the oil. I am thinking of using a larger diameter tank and just add a divider down the center. Coolant is 7 months old in this photo. I think most of the problem with it is it tries to mix with the way oil instead of rejecting it.

Coolant-3.jpg


This shows the bubbler and sealless pump. My main concern with the pump was the flow rate, it has to be pretty slow.

Coolant-4.jpg


This is what the bag looks like when it needs to be changed. It just doesn't flow enough to keep up. Nothing makes it into the final coolant tank. I go with a 5 micron bag because a coarser bag doesn't last any longer so might as well filter down as fine as possible. Bags are $5 and last for months.
Coolant-5.jpg


Some of these ideas and parts came from me having to make a larger scale coolant filtration system for my stone work. I have to filter the water to sub-micron levels and a lot of the "chips" are under 10 microns. Coolant flow at the spindle is around 5 gpm with two 1/4" locline hoses and 1/4" nozzles. The minimum amount of coolant I need for full flow is 4 gallons with a good filter, I have about 7 gallons in the system in these photos. I do not have any problems with the coolant getting hot while running production for weeks on end, in fact, I don't notice any change in temperature from the beginning to the end of a day running aluminum. Only having to deal with 7 gallons when swapping coolant makes my life a lot easier. I use a concrete mixing tub to evaporate the water off leaving around a pint of ooze to dispose of.

It would be easy to scale this up some if you wanted to but this works just fine. I have gone through many changes solving all of the little problems so everything looks pretty rough. I just never worried about how it looked since I never knew if it would work or not. Next up is a mini chip auger.
 
I bought this nexgen c thru seperator and put it on a 30 min a day timer. My oakflow coolant is now a few years old and no rankness in my vmc 15 I run less than weekly.

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Thanks for sharing. Nice setup. I see you've run into the same problem with finding a pump that pumps slow enough for the skimmer. I ended up using a belt skimmer and then running that through a coalescer. Where do you buy your filter bags?
 
Thanks for sharing. Nice setup. I see you've run into the same problem with finding a pump that pumps slow enough for the skimmer. I ended up using a belt skimmer and then running that through a coalescer. Where do you buy your filter bags?
McMaster Carr for the bags. I think I got the pump from Zoro for $50, but yeah it was pretty hard to find one that would work. Bonus is no seals to worry about.
 
I was just thinking of this thread yesterday because I had to change the filter after 7 or 8 months. It seems more dependant on time than how much coolant goes through it. The last two coolant changes are not from it going rancid, it is because it starts separating. I use Master Chemical Trim C320, which is a full synthetic, but it seems to emulsify the tramp oil, and there is a lot of it from the box ways, and after awhile it seems to start breaking down. Next step is to find a coolant that totally rejects tramp oil.

The bag I am using now is 39" long so I have to tie the bottom of the bag to the filter head with a piece of wire to reduce it's length. The longer bags cost a little more but double the filter area. You can get the plastic filter heads from McMaster too. Go with the cheapest bag and don't try to have the bag retain the tramp oil, unless your machine is grease only. McMaster does have some bags that are designed to trap the oils out of the water. When the bag is clean it doesn't restrict coolant flow at all.

I have heard on this forum of others having problems with cheap skimmer pumps not lasting. I suspect it is the coolant attacking the rubber shaft seals, something you don't have to worry about with seal-less pumps.

The McMaster-Carr bag # is 5162K116 5 Micron $7.45
The Little Giant pump is Zoro #: G1394163| Mfr #: 1-AA-MD and is $52.25
 
Just an update. The problem I was having with the coolant separating I believe was because it was WAY too rich and mineral buildup, I am on a well with borderline hard water. I have since purchased an RO system, a refractometer and hold it at 7%, that problem has disapeared. Changed out the coolant yesterday and ended up with 10 gallons of old coolant, cleaner and rinse water to deal with:). I have since started rinsing my parts, then pallets, then chips, in that order, with RO water and have reduced my concentrate use by around 90%. Chips are noticeably cleaner, amazing how much coolant goes out with the chips. This change also means I no longer blow the fixtures off with air, I rinse them off in a 5 gallon bucket with a little water in it. It does a better job and saves a lot of machine time since I do not blow anything off while the spindle is idle.
 








 
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