1953 Monarch 10EE Project

[owensexport]

What suggestions do you guys have for cleaning surface rust off of the ways?
I used some penetrating spray with a scotch brite pad on a small area and that seems to knock it down but it is going to take a lot of elbow grease...
Not going to be doing a cosmetic restoration in this machine,. More looking for a functional working lathe.

 

[m-lud]

What suggestions do you guys have for cleaning surface rust off of the ways?
I used some penetrating spray with a scotch brite pad on a small area and that seems to knock it down but it is going to take a lot of elbow grease...
Not going to be doing a cosmetic restoration in this machine,. More looking for a functional working lathe.

A single edge razor blade held at the proper angle shaves any surface rust off nicely. Use a fresh blade if your blade gets any nicks it may scratch. It works for me.

 

[owensexport]

Spent a few hours cleaning up the ways and the suggestions of Razors worked quite well. Thanks!!
Ways are clean with just some minor staining and a very few nicks and almost no wear that I can determine.

 

[owensexport]

Well I got it fired up and spinning both directions. I have a problem with the speed potentiometer but was able to find a similar one on Ebay.
I filled everything with the various oils and got the carriage to travel back and forth. I let the machine run for about an hour with the feed shaft engaged but was not seeing any oil come up to the ways.
I also noticed that sometimes the carriage would skip when moving towards the headstock. The feed shaft would be turning but the traversing handle would stop for several rotations and then start moving again.
I figured I should drop the apron to clean and inspect the oiling system and see what was going on.

 

[owensexport]

What a nightmare I got myself into....
The clutch on the feed shaft has been buggered up at some point. I was unable to get the set screws out. I tried drilling it out but the bit broke, then I used a punch and that broke!!
I discovered that 3 of the screws that hold the clutch unit onto the gearbox were missing. After grinding a bit to get into the tiny space I was able to work the last screw out and viola, the apron is off.... More to the feed clutch later

 

[owensexport]

 

[owensexport]

Everything looks pretty good aside from some chip build up... they must have been using air to clean the machine
I found chips in places where I cant believe they would migrate to.

 

[owensexport]

Now onto the friction clutch... I read some previous posts and was able to get the handle mechanism off without too much trouble. I am not sure if I should attempt to go farther or just clean and put back together. I am hoping that the large slotted nut was just not adjusted tight enough.

 

[bll230]

If you decide to take apart the apron, all bearings are available, except the 1/2" id thrust bearings in the friction stems. I was able to adapt metric bearings to fit in the spaces that the American thrusts were in. If you take the frictions stems apart be careful with the the thrusts as you may be able to reuse.

 

[m-lud]

Now onto the friction clutch... I read some previous posts and was able to get the handle mechanism off without too much trouble. I am not sure if I should attempt to go farther or just clean and put back together. I am hoping that the large slotted nut was just not adjusted tight enough.

View attachment 303949

View attachment 303950

From where you are now disassembly and checking it all out would be easier than doing it twice.
In photo #2 that wide gear appears to have broken teeth too the right side in the photo. It may just be the photo. Was the slippage intermittent or always in one place. Intermittent would likely just be clutch slippage.

No broken teeth in the gear. I see it now

 

[rke[pler]

If I were in the back of the 10EE apron I'd pull the halfnuts and clear the oil passage into the top nut. Always see them crudded up.

 

[owensexport]

If you decide to take apart the apron, all bearings are available,

I dont think I am going to, this machine was rebuilt in 1986 and I honestly dont see it being used that much after that, the inside of the gearbox looks excellent aside from dirty oil and some chips....

 

[owensexport]

Was the slippage intermittent or always in one place. Intermittent would likely just be clutch slippage.

No broken teeth in the gear. I see it now

It was intermittent and only in one direction.
I cant see any broken teeth and the gears look excellent.
I am going to clean it out with solvent, clear all the oil
lines and put it back together, I need to resolve the feed rod clutch coupling first...

 

[m-lud]

Owensexport
I'm at the exact same place that you are on getting the automatic oiling system working on my 10ee. Just pulled the carriage but not the apron yet.
As good as the gears look on yours and the 1989 rebuild you probably good. Not all lathes get a lot of threading use or automatic feed use. My apron gears look like new as do yours. No speed going on there.
The ways don't get oiled and the oiling system get exercised without feed travel. If a guy only does a lot of close too the chuck work its not going to get oil pumping and eventually clog up. Just my theory. donie may have said it and I read it.
That's why when I get the oiler working i'll follow that post donie wrote in the ten ee book for dummies thread.
It needs to be pumped through feed travel.

Even that milky oil you had is better than no oil. It can separate if it sets to long and cause rust.

Keep us posted. I'm following your lead. Almost move by move.

 

[m-lud]

Getting a Monarch Series 61 Back in Service

This whole link / thread above is informative but what may help you and I is posts from about 125 through 145 is about an monarch oiling system
good photos and information about metering valves and oil lines Not a 10-ee but relevant information.
Texasgunsmith is going to convert to manual pump. If I had time and energy I would consider that also.

 

[owensexport]

It needs to be pumped through feed travel..

I realized that also, when looking down at the pump, I can see that it is only actuated when the cross slide shaft or Longitudinal shaft is turning... I thought it was run off the feed rod.

 

[owensexport]

Getting a Monarch Series 61 Back in Service

This whole link / thread above is informative but what may help you and I is posts from about 125 through 145 is about an monarch oiling system
good photos and information about metering valves and oil lines Not a 10-ee but relevant information.

I did read through that thread, good information there. Thanks

 

[m-lud]

Quote:

I realized that also, when looking down at the pump, I can see that it is only actuated when the cross slide shaft or Longitudinal shaft is turning... I thought it was run off the feed rod.

I just learned something there
​

 

[rimcanyon]

i clean the metering units in an ultrasonic cleaner with pine sol as the cleaning solution. Pine sol is slightly acidic and it does a great job.

 

[m-lud]

By its design the pump has to be cam or eccentric driven. One side of the arm against something stationary and the other side riding on the cam. I was thinking it had to be in automatic feed from a post that I had read but that wouldn't be practical. Feeding with the cross feed hand wheel turns the same shafts /gears as the feed screw turns.
Good tips on cleaning the metering valve
.I have been using dawn dish washing soap for cleaning hard too reach grease and oil. Strait out of the bottle or slightly diluted.